Breathing new life into a garden that's seen better days can be a challenge, especially when time is of the essence. Like many, I've had my fair share of spots in the garden that needed urgent attention. But with the right approach and a dash of patience, I found a method that allowed me to rejuvenate these areas swiftly and effectively.

Tools:

• Wheelbarrow or Garden Cart
• Shovel
• Sprinkler
• Hose
• Rake (optional but recommended)

Materials:

• 5 lb Grass Seed (Quality matters but work with what you have)
• 2-3 Medium (20 lb) Bags of Top Soil

Step-by-Step Grass Revival:

1. Preparation: Begin by pouring a bag of top soil into the wheelbarrow. Break up any clumps to ensure it's loose. This can easily be done by piercing the soil bag with the shovel and letting the content flow out.
2. Seeding: For each bag of top soil, sprinkle a generous handful of grass seed into the wheelbarrow.
3. Mixing: Integrate the seed with the soil using the shovel, ensuring an even mixture. Think of it like kneading dough where every bit is important.
4. Application: With the shovel, distribute the soil-seed mix over the area you're looking to rehabilitate. The trick is to ensure a thin, even layer.
5. Watering: The success of this method heavily relies on watering. Set up your sprinkler and hydrate the treated area thoroughly. If you're conscious of water consumption, timing this activity just before forecasted rainfall can be a natural and efficient alternative.

Results & Observations:

The outcome of this technique is often swift and impressive. With nutrient-rich soil intertwined with seeds, growth is more robust and widespread compared to traditional seeding methods. Timing, of course, plays a role – it's crucial to sow when conditions are optimal.

I've used this method across various parts of my garden, from large plots to minor patches. Recently, after removing old railroad ties, this technique transformed the area within days, producing a verdant patch that outshone the surrounding grass.

For those keen on a more enriched approach, raking the spot to aerate the soil, followed by a preliminary seeding and the above method, can yield even quicker results. I've experimented with traditional seeding on its own and found that this combined approach consistently delivers a lusher, denser growth.

In gardening, as in life, sometimes it's the simple techniques that produce the most profound results. Happy gardening!

When setting out to cultivate a green thumb, the tools and materials you have on hand can make all the difference. The right equipment can simplify tasks, prevent injuries, and ensure that plants get the best care possible. Below are two categorized lists detailing the must-have tools and materials for every gardener, whether a seasoned professional or a budding enthusiast.

Hand pruning shears

At the top of the list for any gardener. Useful for deadheading flowers, cutting back grasses, and trimming twigs. Ensure they have sharp blades, and choose a model comfortable for your hands. Invest in a durable pair and consider annual sharpening.

Garden shovel

A must for various tasks like digging holes, dividing plants, or removing dead plants. A garden shovel is lightweight with a smaller spade than a traditional shovel. There are several types with each suited to specific tasks. A straight edge is great for defined borders while a spearhead spade is effective for removing shrubs.

Hori-hori

Often referred to as the Swiss Army knife of garden tools, the hori-hori or soil knife is versatile. It has a straight edge, a serrated side, and a sharp notch useful for cutting twine or opening compost bags. A point notched with measurements also helps in digging holes.

Garden sickle

Ideal for cutting back ornamental grasses when dormant. An efficient tool that doesn't require power, it easily slices through grass when held with one hand and used with the other.

Hand rake

A more delicate alternative to large leaf rakes or blowers. Two types are recommended: one with flexible tines for cleaning out debris from plants and a garden rake with stiff tines for spreading compost or soil.

Cart or wagon

A necessary tool for hauling heavy items such as mulch, soil, or planters. Various models exist including single-wheel wheelbarrows, two to four-wheel carts, and even all-terrain tire variants.

Kneeler

Protects your knees and spine when gardening for extended periods. The two-in-one design includes a kneeling pad with supports that can be flipped over to function as a cushioned seat.

Hose

Essential for easy water transportation. Consider attaching a watering wand to reduce water pressure for a gentle flow, and have a watering can for difficult-to-reach areas.

Folding hand saw

A tool for tasks that pruning shears can't handle, especially thick shrub or tree branches. Choose models with safety features, such as blades that fold into the handle.

Garden tub trug

A handy container for hauling and storing garden items. They are flexible, washable, and perfect for carrying tools, compost, or garden waste.

Zip ties

Used for securing growing plants to supports like stakes, cages, or trellises. They offer an efficient way to ensure plants grow in the desired direction.

Sturdy pants

Comfortable and functional clothing for gardening. Whether they are cargo pants with reinforced knees or specialized gardening bib overalls, ensure they have pockets for storing essential items.

Gloves

Protect your hands during various gardening tasks. They come in different types, such as waterproof, breathable, or nitrile gloves. The choice of gloves depends on the task and personal preference.

Tools:

• Hand pruning shears
• Garden shovel
• Hori-hori (soil knife)
• Garden sickle
• Hand rake
• Cart or wagon
• Kneeler
• Hose
• Folding hand saw

Materials:

• Garden tub trug
• Zip ties
• Sturdy pants (clothing for gardening)
• Gloves

A deck can be the crown jewel of your outdoor space, providing a comfortable area for relaxation, socialization, and even dining al fresco. However, the elements can take a toll on even the most robustly constructed deck. To ensure its longevity and maintain its beauty, regular maintenance is crucial. Here are some tips and best practices to keep your deck looking its best year after year.

Remember, before beginning any maintenance task, it's always a good idea to ensure you have all necessary tools and materials on hand to make the process efficient and effective.

Tools:

1. Broom: For sweeping away leaves, dirt, and other debris.
2. Stiff Brush: Used to scrub the deck during deep cleaning.
3. Screwdriver or Drill: For tightening or replacing loose nails or screws.
4. Plastic Shovel: To remove snow without scratching the deck.
5. Spray Bottle or Garden Sprayer: For applying cleaning solution or vinegar mixture.
6. Fire Extinguisher: Keep it handy when barbecuing on the deck.
7. Paintbrush or Roller: For applying sealant or stain.

Materials:

1. Deck Cleaner Solution: To deep clean the deck and remove mold, algae, or dirt.
2. Waterproof Sealant: To protect wood from moisture.
3. Deck Stain: For additional protection and aesthetics.
4. White Vinegar: A natural solution to combat mold and mildew.
5. Mildewcide: Can be added to cleaning solutions to prevent mold growth.
6. Nails or Screws: Replacement for any loose or missing ones during inspection.
7. Saucers or Stands: To be placed beneath planters.
8. Grease Catcher: For use when grilling to prevent stains and damage.
9. Soft Cloth or Rag: For wiping down and drying certain areas if needed.

1. Regular Cleaning

A clean deck is not just about aesthetics; it's about preventing the buildup of mold, mildew, and debris that can damage its surface over time.

• Sweep Regularly: At least once a week, sweep away leaves, dirt, and other debris.
• Deep Clean Annually: Use a deck cleaner solution and a stiff brush to scrub the deck. This will remove any mold, algae, or deep-seated dirt.

2. Check for Damages

Inspect your deck at least twice a year, preferably during spring and fall.

• Look for any signs of rot, especially in areas that stay damp.
• Check for loose nails or screws, and tighten or replace as necessary.
• If boards are warped or damaged, consider replacing them.

3. Seal and Stain

To protect the wood from moisture and the sun's UV rays, it's essential to seal or stain your deck.

• Choose the Right Sealant: A waterproof sealant will prevent moisture damage.
• Staining: This not only adds beauty but also provides an additional layer of protection. Remember to choose a stain that's suitable for your deck's wood type.

4. Address Mold and Mildew

In damp climates, mold and mildew can be a persistent problem.

• Use a deck cleaning solution with mildewcide or a mix of white vinegar and water to combat this issue.
• Ensure proper ventilation and sunlight for your deck, as these can naturally deter mold growth.

5. Mind the Gaps

The spaces between deck boards are crucial for drainage.

• Ensure these gaps remain clear and free of debris to prevent water buildup.
• If boards are too close together, consider adjusting them to allow for better drainage.

6. Avoid Excess Weight

While decks are built to be sturdy, avoid placing excessively heavy items or overcrowding it with furniture. This will reduce the strain on the deck's structure.

7. Relocate Planters

Plants can enhance the beauty of your deck, but planters can trap moisture against the deck's surface.

• Use stands or saucers beneath planters to prevent direct contact.
• Periodically move planters to allow the deck beneath them to dry out and breathe.

8. Shovel Snow Carefully

If you live in an area prone to snow, remove it from your deck to prevent moisture damage.

• Use a plastic shovel instead of metal to avoid scratching the deck's surface.
• Avoid using salt or chemical deicers that can damage the wood or its finish.

9. Mind Your Grill

If you barbecue on your deck, use a grease catcher and keep a fire extinguisher handy. Regularly check for any signs of damage or discoloration from the heat and address them promptly.

10. Consult a Professional

If you're unsure about the state of your deck or how to address specific issues, it's always a good idea to consult with a deck maintenance professional. They can provide insights and solutions tailored to your deck's specific needs.

Your outdoor deck is more than just a structure; it's a space for memories, relaxation, and enjoyment. With regular maintenance and a proactive approach, you can ensure its beauty and functionality for years to come.

Busting the budget is everyone's most significant fear when renovating. Even when following essential advice—building a 20% cushion to cover unexpected expenses, checking contractor references, and avoiding impulse changes—it's challenging not to spend more than anticipated.

But why compromise on your dream project? Instead, realize your vision at a price you can manage. Not by cutting quality, but through thoughtful decisions about design, materials, and timing. Here, we'll present various strategies, ranging from major overhauls to small tweaks. Remember, every little bit counts.

1. Increase efficiency, not size.
   Rethink your space to optimize its utility. Instead of expanding, replace space-hogging shelves with cabinet-height pullout drawers. Such upgrades might cost upfront, but they'll save more than expanding the area.
2. Bring in natural light without adding windows.
   Before making structural changes, explore cost-effective solutions like "light tubes" that funnel sunshine into spaces without direct sunlight.
3. Hit the recycling center.
   Recycled or lightly used fixtures can lead to significant savings. Habitat for Humanity operates numerous ReStores offering discounted materials. Note: some contractors might hesitate to use salvaged items.
4. Donate your trash.
   Before remodeling, let your local Habitat for Humanity chapter salvage materials. It's a win-win: you support charity, get a tax break, and reduce waste.
5. Do your own demo.
   Handling demolition can cut costs. However, exercise caution. One wrong move can lead to expensive mistakes.
6. Consider long-term costs, not just short-term gains.
   Investing in quality materials like preprimed siding can reduce future maintenance expenses.
7. Tap your contractor's sources.
   Ask your subcontractor about leftover materials. Sometimes, they can source significant discounts.
8. Limit recessed light fixtures.
   Recessed lights might seem economical, but they come with hidden installation costs. Alternatives can offer more light for fewer expenses.
9. Consult an architect.
   An architect's insight can be invaluable, even without a full commission. One-time consultations can offer innovative solutions at a fraction of the cost.

1. Partner with a contractor.
   Some contractors provide consulting for DIY enthusiasts, guiding them through complex tasks.
2. Make sweat equity count.
   If you have the time and skill, your labor can translate to savings, whether in demolition or finish work.
3. Do your own hauling.
   Transporting materials yourself can eliminate delivery fees. Consider buying or renting a utility trailer for substantial hauls.
4. Don't overspend on wall prep.
   If your walls need significant work, explore alternatives like Texturglas. It's a durable, paint-friendly material that can cover imperfections.
5. Consider look-alikes.
   Opt for sustainable alternatives like Weyerhaeuser's Lyptus, which resembles mahogany but is sourced responsibly.
6. Demolish the whole house and start from scratch.
   In some cases, new construction might be as economical as a remodel, offering added value while retaining character.
7. Wait until contractors want your business.
   Avoid renovating during peak seasons. Contractors often offer discounts in slower months.
8. Skip the foundation.
   For small additions, see if local codes allow support via posts and beams, similar to a deck.
9. Don't move the kitchen sink.
   Relocating plumbing can be costly. Keep fixtures where they are if possible.
10. Plan with stock sizes in mind.
    Design around standard material dimensions. Off-the-shelf sizes are more economical than custom orders.
11. Make decisions early.
    Start shopping and planning before construction begins. Being decisive prevents reliance on potentially low contractor allowances.

Pre-Construction Tools and Materials List

Tools:

Computer or Tablet:

• For research, creating design drafts, checking local regulations, communicating with professionals, and sourcing materials.

Software:

• CAD Software: Allows for design and drafting of your renovation plans.
• Budgeting Software or Spreadsheet: To track expected costs and compare against actuals as quotes come in.
• Project Management Tool: Helps schedule tasks, set reminders for milestones, and track progress.

Printer & Scanner:

• For printing designs, local regulations, contracts, and scanning any handwritten notes or documents.

Measuring Tape:

• Critical for taking accurate measurements of the space to ensure your plans are feasible.

Notebook & Pen:

• For jotting down ideas, sketches, and notes during the planning phase.

Camera or Smartphone:

• To take pictures of the current space, which can be useful for designers, contractors, or for before-and-after comparisons.

Local Code & Regulation Books:

• To ensure the planned remodel complies with local building codes and regulations.

Materials:

Blueprint Paper or Graph Paper:

• For sketching out ideas or preliminary designs.

Folders & Binders:

• Organize printed materials, contracts, receipts, and other important documentation.

Local Zoning Maps & Restrictions:

• These can often be sourced from a local town hall or online database.

Reference Books & Magazines:

• For design inspiration and technical advice.

Sample Materials:

• Paint swatches, wood samples, fabric swatches, etc., to visualize and decide on materials and colors.

Sticky Notes & Highlighters:

• Useful for marking important sections in code books, making temporary notes on blueprints, or highlighting budget items.

With this list, you'll be well-equipped for the pre-construction phase of your remodeling project!

A leaking toilet isn't just an annoyance; it can result in substantial water waste and potential damage to your bathroom. Drawing from years of plumbing experience, I'll guide you in diagnosing and repairing that pesky toilet leak like a pro.

Understanding the Culprit

Before diving into repairs, it's vital to understand that toilets have several potential leak points, each with its solutions. Identifying the right one ensures an effective fix.

When undertaking any repair, always ensure you have all the necessary tools and materials on hand before starting to make the process efficient and seamless.

Tools List:

1. Wrench: Useful for tightening nuts and bolts.
2. Plumber's Putty Knife: To scrape off the old wax ring.
3. Standard Plunger: In case you need to clear the bowl before working.
4. Towels or Rags: For cleaning up any water and debris.
5. Gloves: To keep your hands clean during the process.

Materials List:

1. Water Supply Hose: A replacement might be needed if the existing one is compromised.
2. Bolts and Washers: To connect the tank and bowl. Replacement sets are available if originals are corroded.
3. Wax Ring: A critical seal between the toilet and flange. Comes in various thicknesses.
4. Foam or Plastic Seal: Modern alternatives to traditional wax rings.
5. Flange Spacers: Rings that can be stacked on the existing flange to adjust its height.
6. Flange Insert or Extender: Another option for adjusting the height of the flange.

Step-by-Step Diagnosis and Repair:

1. Preliminary Inspection:

Upon noticing a leak, initiate a primary visual inspection to pinpoint the most apparent source. Sometimes, it's a mere condensation issue on the tank, which can be mistaken for a leak.

2. Inspecting the Water Supply Line:

Start with the water supply line at the base of the toilet. This line feeds water into the toilet tank.

• Ensure the connecting nut is tight. Use a wrench but avoid over-tightening.
• Inspect the supply hose for any signs of wear, damage, or rust. If it appears compromised, consider a replacement.

3. The Tank-Bowl Connection:

The tank and bowl are typically joined by bolts. Over time, these can loosen or their seals can degrade.

• Tighten any loose bolts using a wrench, ensuring an even pressure to prevent cracking the toilet.
• If there's evident corrosion on the bolts or washers, replace them.

4. The Wax Ring Seal:

If you find water pooling on the floor around the toilet or stains on the ceiling below, the wax ring seal between the toilet base and the flange might be the culprit.

• To confirm, you can slightly press the toilet bowl. Movement indicates a failed seal.
• To replace, you'll need to remove the toilet, scrape off the old wax, and install a new one.

5. Flange Height Considerations:

The flange's height is crucial for the effectiveness of the wax ring seal. If the flange sits too low relative to the finished floor level, the seal may not be watertight.

• In cases of low flange height, opting for a thicker wax ring can provide a better seal.

6. Wax Ring Alternatives:

Wax rings are traditional, but there are modern alternatives offering a cleaner installation and repositioning flexibility.

• Foam and plastic seals are reliable alternatives, ensuring a watertight seal.

7. Adjusting the Flange Level:

If you notice the flange is sitting significantly lower than the floor surface:

• Consider adding flange spacers. These are rings that stack on top of your existing flange, raising its height.
• Alternatively, a flange insert or extender can be positioned atop the existing flange for an enhanced elevation.

Final Thoughts:

Remember, while DIY can be a cost-effective solution, if you're ever uncertain about any step or the problem persists, don't hesitate to consult or hire a professional plumber. Ensuring the job is done right can save you money and headaches in the long run.

Installing a dimmer switch gives you the power to adjust your lighting to create just the right mood for any occasion. Whether you want a cozy, intimate atmosphere or a bright, cheerful setting, a dimmer switch is the key to achieving the perfect lighting balance.

Follow these steps to successfully install a dimmer switch and set the stage for a truly magical ambiance:

1. Cut the Power - Safety First!

Begin by cutting the electricity supply at the circuit breaker. To ensure the power is off, test the light switch by turning it on and making sure it remains off. Additionally, use a voltage tester to double-check that no electrical current is present.

1. Remove the Plate and Switch

Use a screwdriver to unscrew and remove the plate cover. Once the plate is removed, verify once again that the power is off using a voltage tester. Proceed by unscrewing the switch from the wall and gently pulling it away. Remove both screws on the switch and disconnect the wires. Take note of the wire placement on the old switch; if you're new to electrical work, you can use tape or take a photo with your phone for reference.

1. Connect the Dimmer Switch

You will encounter three wires: one dark, one white, and possibly a ground wire, either uncovered copper or wrapped in green.

Identify the different colored wires and connect them to the dimmer switch in the same way they were attached to the old switch. For solid copper wires, create a loop at the end with pliers and guide it around the screw on the dimmer switch. Tighten the screw to securely hold the wire beneath it.

If your wall wires are a group of smaller wires, gently twist the ends together to create a single "whole" wire and follow the same procedure.

1. Attach the Dimmer Switch to the Box and Reinstall the Switch Plate

Once the wires are securely connected, carefully tuck any excess wire and fit the dimmer into the electrical box. Be gentle to avoid loosening or breaking the wires. Secure the switch to the box with screws, and then fit the switch plate. Sometimes, adjusting the switch screws by a few small turns can make a difference in how well the plate fits over the box. After the cover is in place, turn the power back on and admire your handiwork!

Remember, not all light bulbs are suitable for use with dimmer switches. Using the wrong combination can damage the bulb and the dimmer equipment. Check the bulb's packaging to see if it is dimmable.

Tools Needed:

• Screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Voltage detector

Materials Required:

• Dimmer switch
• Switch plate

With the right tools and materials, installing a dimmer switch becomes a straightforward and rewarding DIY project. Enjoy the flexibility and ambiance that your new dimmer switch brings to your home!

There are situations where replacing electrical outlets becomes necessary. It may be due to their inability to hold plugs securely or when they are damaged, affecting their functionality. Replacing them is a relatively simple task that usually takes between five to ten minutes.

Before you begin, make sure to gather the necessary tools and materials:
Tools:

• Voltage tester
• Screwdriver
• Wire cutter
• Wire stripper
• Electrical tape

Materials:

• Electrical receptacle

Follow these steps to replace an electrical outlet effectively:

Use the Same Size and Rating
Ensure that the replacement electrical outlet is of the same size and rating as the original one. Using the wrong size or rating could lead to future problems and inefficiencies. Additionally, if you're replacing an outlet near sinks or taps, opt for a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) equipment.

Turn Off the Power
Before starting the replacement process, turn off the power to the outlet to avoid any electrical current interference during the task.

Remove the Cover
Double-check that the power is indeed off using a voltage tester and connect it to the electrical outlet wires. Remove the cover plate and reconfirm that the power is off. To be extra cautious, leave a note on the fuse box to inform others in the house about the ongoing work, preventing any accidental switch-on.

Remove the Outlet
Carefully unscrew and remove the outlet from the wall. Take note of the terminal connections and ensure to connect them correctly to the corresponding terminals on the new outlet. Perform thorough testing to ensure that the wires are securely connected.

Attach the Wires
Prepare a wire that is U-shaped and about three-quarters of an inch long. When tightening, hook the wire from below so that it is pulled tautly.

Insert the Outlet into the Wall
Gently return the outlet back into the wall, ensuring that the wires are folded appropriately for easy insertion.

Install the Cover Plate
Securely install the cover plate over the outlet, completing the replacement process.

Test
Turn the power back on and test the new outlet to ensure it is functioning correctly.

By following these steps and using the right tools and materials, you can easily and safely replace electrical outlets in your home. Remember to prioritize safety and turn off the power before commencing any electrical work.

Installing a French drain is an effective method to divert water from getting into your crawlspace or basement. It involves placing a French Drain along your foundation footer.

Tools and Materials

Before we begin, let's gather all the necessary tools and materials.

Tools:

• Trench shovel
  

Materials:

• Non-woven Landscape fabric
  
• 4" Perforated Drain Pipe
  
• Round River rock
  

Step 1: Dig the Trench

Dig a 6" to 12" wide trench along the foundation wall. If you do it in sections, this will reduce the chance of undermining the foundation wall. It is recommended to dig 12" - 24" deep so that you are at or near the bottom of the foundation footer. These variances in the trench width and depth are due to the local area codes that require different depths depending on the soil and frost line.

Step 2: Compact the Soil

Compact any loose soil in the bottom of the trench. Either use a hand compactor or a 6-foot 4x4.

Step 3: Insert Landscape Fabric

Put unwoven landscape fabric in the trench to form a burrito. I used 6' wide fabric so it would extend up a few feet on each side.

Step 4: Add the First Layer of Rocks

Install a 2 or 3-inch layer of round rock on top of the fabric.

Step 5: Lay the Drain Pipe

Lay the 3" or 4” diameter perforated drain pipe on top of the round rock. The holes need to face DOWN.

Step 6: Add the Second Layer of Rocks

Put in another 2"-3" of round rock on top of the drain pipe.

Step 7: Wrap the Fabric

Wrap the fabric so it covers the rock.

Step 8: Add the Final Layer of Rocks

Add 2"-3" of round rock on top of the fabric. Alternatively, it can be covered with sod or other topsoil.

Building a rain barrel can be an excellent way to save on your water bill and make use of a free, natural resource. Here's how you can build one for yourself.

Tools and Materials

Before we begin, let's gather all the necessary tools and materials.

Tools:

• Hacksaw

Materials:

• Barrel
• Downspout connectors
• Filter
• Crushed gravel or pavers
• Valve
• Garden hose
• Watering bucket

Step 1: Dry Run

Place the barrel near the downspout that you want to connect it to. The goal here is to "dry fit" the arrangement so you can be sure that you have enough space to fit the barrel and the right materials (lengths, etc) to make the connections. The barrel should be on crushed gravel or pavers. Be sure to buy the connectors first so it will be much easier to fit the three connectors.

Step 2: Fit downspout into Barrel

Install a filter to prevent debris from getting into the barrel. Attach a downspout by cutting it with a hacksaw and then fitting sections so that the downspout fittings fit into the filter.

Step 3: Install a valve on the barrel

Install a valve toward the bottom of the barrel so that you can fill a watering bucket. It can also connect to a garden hose.

A garbage disposal is a big part of the convenience we are used to today. Unlike those of us who live in the county that uses some of our garbage for compost and scrap feeding farm animals, some people have to use their garbage disposal each and every day. There will come a time when it will need to be replaced with a new disposal. This is an easy DIY project that will keep you from paying for a service call or installation fee. Follow the next few steps listed and you can save as well as maintain the disposal you now have.

Step 1: Prepare to remove old disposal

Make sure that you have all the parts and tools need to begin the project. Check your instructions to be sure you have the parts listed on the sheet. Be sure the breaker that supplies the power to your unit is off at the breaker box. Be sure to check the amperage at the circuit to see if the breaker is supplying the correct amperage for your new unit. If not replace your breaker first.

Step 2: Remove the Drain Arm and Tube

Remove the drain arm from the unit. Use your pliers to remove the spring clamp that attaches the drain arm to the unit. Remove the drain tube unit.

Step 3: Remove the old disposal unit

Twist the unit off of the mounting nut. When you twist the unit it should be loose and ready to remove from the mount. Be sure to check for any remaining debris in the old unit. Take the electrical connections loose by removing the electrical plate on the side of the unit. Remove the mounting assembly from the sink. Unscrew the mounting ring and remove the drain flange. Be sure to clean and remove all of the plumbers putty from the drain opening.

Step 4: Install the new disposal hardware

Place the rubber seal on the drain flange. Your new disposal flange should have a rubber seal included. If not you will need to use plumber’s putty. Place the drain flange into the drain hole. Place the other drain seal on the bottom side of the drain hole. Attach the metal backup ring with the flat side up. Most of your units include metals flanges but if your unit has plastic flange take caution not to overtighten and crack the plastic flanges.

Step 5: Attach the bottom mounting ring

Attach the mounting ring with the screws provided. Take a hammer and screwdriver and remove the plug from the disposal. Turn the unit upside down and allow anything that may have fallen inside to come out. Push the unit onto the mounting ring and twist the unit to help secure the new unit to the mounting ring. Tighten the mounting screws to secure the new disposal unit.

Step 6: Prepare the unit for service

After making sure the unit is mounted securely you will need to reattach the drain arm and drain tubes. Reconnect the electrical wires and replace the electrical cover. Run water through the unit to check for any leaks. Power the unit up to check the operation of the unit.

Tools and Materials List

Tools:

• Pliers
• Screwdriver
• Hammer

Materials:

• New garbage disposal unit
• Drain flange
• Rubber seals
• Metal backup ring
• Mounting ring and screws
• Plumber's putty (if the new disposal flange doesn't include a rubber seal)

Hardwood floors give an elegant look to your house. However, over the years, the floor can lose its luster due to reasons like stains, scratches, etc. Usually, you would have to sand down the floor to raw wood, and then refinish the floor to regain the previous glow. But, it is not always necessary to sand down the floor. You can add a new coat of Polyurethane over the old finish, and your floor can be renewed to its old shine.

The reason why polyurethane works is that all wooden floors are protected by a coating, and it is the coating that eventually gets the scratches and stains. Now, if the damage is not deep, and the scratches are not too severe, you can just scuff-sand your floor using a buffer, and apply a fresh coat of polyurethane over it to finish.

Some of the advantages of using Polyurethane compared to sanding down the floor to bare wood are:

• It takes less time, effort, and cost.
• The process creates less dust and the floor can be recoated many times.
• Every time you sand down the floor to bare wood, you will remove some wood, and in case of laminated floors, there is a good chance that the plywood will be exposed after two or three times.
• You can do the recoating all by yourself if you allow at least one full day for this work.

Below is a step by step procedure of recoating your floor using polyurethane.

Tools and Materials

Assemble all the tools and materials needed for re-coating. For this process, you will find all the tools and materials at your typical home-centers like Home Depot etc. The full list is at the end of this article and you can save the list to your project folder by selecting the "Save to Project" button.  We also have an app if you need to view the list while you are at the store.

Clean the Room and Floor

Remove all the items in the room including the furniture, wall-pictures, drapes etc., and cover the permanent fixtures. Turn off the air conditioning, and cover all the vents to prevent the dust from circulating in the room. Scrape out any gunk on the floor, and clean the floor using a gentle cleaner liquid of your choice. Spray the cleaner on the floor and wipe with a mop or a towel. Allow the floor to dry before starting the work.

Buffing

If your floor is in good shape (e.g. you coated it previously and/or you don't need to sand out any scratches) you may be able to coat the floor without buffing. We have coated some floors skipping this step and they looked great. In fact, the photos in this article are from a floor that has not been sanded or buffed. If you do need to buff the floor, hand-sand the perimeter of the floor using 180-grit sandpaper. Swing the buffer left and right gently, starting from one side of the room and moving backwards. Make sure you put the dust mask on before you start buffing.

Vacuum and Dry-tack

After buffing, leave the room for 10 to 15 minutes. Vacuum the floor, and wipe it with a clean cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Make sure to keep the room dust-free by using a microfiber dry-tack cloth.

Apply the Finish

The last step is to apply the polyurethane. There are two types of polyurethanes, oil-based polyurethane and water-based polyurethane.

The durability of the products is not supposed to differ but I found that the water-based poly lasted longer (about one year longer). This is not scientific but based on my experience using both. The other advantages of a water-based poly is that you can apply additional coats (necessary with both) in the same day (need to wait 2 hours between coats) and the fumes are not as strong. Overall, I have found the water-based poly much easier to work with, easier to apply and lasts longer.

However, if you have used an oil-based stain before and/or you want a stain that soaks into the wood grain (may darken the wood) then the oil-based stain might be a better choice.

Apply the finish by cutting-in along the edges of the wall using a high-quality bristle brush. Stop after ten minutes since the finish may start to dry. Then, use a paint pad or roller to spread out the polyurethane across the floor. Brush more along the edge, and repeat the above steps until all the floor is covered.

Apply 2-4 coats.

After re-coating, keep the floor untouched for about 12 to 18 hours. After that, the floor can withstand light foot traffic. Avoid heavy foot traffic and moving furniture for at least 72 hours. Vacuum the floor frequently to remove dust. Don't use wax or oil soaps on polyurethane floor.